by Sonali Dutta
The most southern part of Japan, Okinawa is famous for being a “blue zone” and having some of the longest-lived people across the globe. The island group has a unique culture, quite distinct from the rest of Japan, due to their geographical separation and history (some elements of the cuisine can be traced from Ryūkū royalty), that is reflected in the food. For example, the purple sweet potato features heavily in many dishes and rice is relatively recent compared to the rest of Japan. Similarly, due to the American presence, traditionally non-Japanese ingredients such as Spam and fusion dishes like taco rice are common.
Having been lucky enough to travel to Okinawa’s main island in December 2023 (and also the fortunate discovery of a fantastic Okinawa restaurant in Tokushima!), I was able to sample some of the delicious food first-hand.
Umibudo (sea grapes) – 海ぶどう
Fondly known as “green caviar”, this delicious seaweed is a well-known speciality of Okinawa. Their name comes from the way they resemble strings of grapes on a vine. Umibudo have a soft crunch and the individual “grapes” pop in your mouth with a delicate, refreshing and sweet flavour. Sometimes served with a tangy dipping sauce or used as a garnish, umibudo is best served fresh.
Goya Chanpuru – チャンプルー
“Chanpuru” means “mixed up” in the Okinawa dialect, referring to a dish of ingredients stir-fried together. Goya is the distinctive bitter melon (also known as bitter gourd)– somewhat of an acquired taste, it appears in lots of dishes. Put them together and you have a delicious stir-fried dish. Other common ingredients in a chanpuru include egg, tofu and pork (or, more commonly due to Okinawa’s American influence, Spam).
I grew to enjoy the bitter tang of the vegetable during my time in Japan. It’s also very healthy, being packed full of vitamins and antioxidants.
Okinawa Soba – 沖縄そば
This hearty dish seems to have more in common with a ramen dish as the stock is made from pork bones and the noodles from wheat flour (not buckwheat as soba noodles are typically made from). During the Ryukyu Dynasty, Okinawa soba was reserved as food for royalty.
Like ramen restaurants elsewhere in Japan, each Okinawa soba joint has its own take on the dish. “Soki soba” is a popular type and topped with stewed pork ribs, spring onions and bright red pickled ginger. The taste is savoury without feeling too rich or heavy.
Rafute – ラフテー
A saying in Okinawa is that you can every part of the pig apart from its tail and its oink. Pork is common in cuisine across the region. I enjoyed trying rafute – a delicious dish of pork belly simmered for hours with awamori (Okinawan liquor) and bonito stock – at a restaurant in Tokushima. The pork ends up being incredibly tender, melting in your mouth, with a rich savoury flavour. As well as being a stand-alone dish, you can also find rafute in rice dishes such as chahan (fried rice).
Jimami Dofu (peanut “tofu”) – ジーマーミ豆腐
Fun fact – I’m allergic to soya so often I have to give tofu items a miss. No such issue with this creamy “tofu” made from peanuts, with not soy used. Jimami dofu is made from mixing sweet potato starch with liquid extracted from peanuts. The resulting product has a sweet, creamy texture that is delicious enjoyed as it is or with the addition of soy sauce (which thankfully I can enjoy!).
There’s nothing like the slightly-addictive delicate, mild creaminess of this dish that is great as a starter or as an accompaniment in a lunch set.
Chinsuko – ちんすこう
The delicious oval-shaped biscuits are a popular souvenir from a visit to Okinawa. The are traditionally made from wheat flour, lard and sugar much like shortbread but with a lighter, crumblier texture. Chinsuko are available in a plethora of flavours such as sea salt, green tea and purple sweet potato to name a few.
Blue Seal Ice Cream
The most popular ice cream brand in Okinawa and with outposts across Japan, trying Blue Seal is basically compulsory during your time there. This American brand quickly became popular after it was introduced post-Second World War and in Okinawa Honto it seems you are never too far from a scoop shop. Available in cones or cups, make a beeline for Okinawa-specific flavours such as purple sweet potato, ube and (my favourite!) Okinawan salt cookies.
I barely scratched the surface of Okinawan food, yet my experience found it delicious and unique. There’s a lightness to the food, which suits the warm subtropical climate, and it seems impossible to not eat well during a trip here. I’m already looking to my next visit (and trying a new Blue Seal flavour).
Teaspoon of Sunshine 