by Sonali Dutta
Berlin’s streets are lined with history, and with a plethora of points of interests and a rich culture, I enjoyed spending a day wandering around this flat city from the old East part to West. I had a few things on my list I definitely wanted to see – Checkpoint Charlie, the Reichstag and Brandenburger Tor – but anything else I was happy to encounter as I went. It would be a challenge to cover everything I experienced during my Berlin flaneur experience, so here are a few standouts.
Ampelmann Traffic Lights
Stopping to cross the road, my eye is drawn to the pedestrian traffic light. East Berlin has the distinctive little Ampelmann – even after the wall came down and Germany was unified, these behatted symbols remained. Now somewhat of a cult icon of Berlin, you can find this distinctive character on tea towels, badges and even as sweets.
Stolpersteine
Scattered through Berlin’s streets are commemorative metal plaques in memory of those lost to Nazi persecution or extermination. Literally translating as “stumbling stones”, these plaques contain information about the last freely chosen residence of each person and includes their names and life dates. The brass plaques started being laid out in 1992 by the artist Gunter Demnig and the project has since been expanded across Europe.
A sobering reminder of a dark part of history, and the people affected. There is more information about Stolpersteine here.
Brandenburger Tor
One of Berlin’s most photographed landmarks, this historic gate has seen several of Berlin’s pivotal historic moments. Built in the eighteenth century to represent peace and mark the start of the route from Berlin to Brandenburg an der Havel, the Tor has existed through Napoleon stealing the Quadriga (statue of the horse-drawn chariot that tops the Gate) and taking it to Paris in 1806. In the twentieth century the USSR constructed the Berlin Wall around the Gate and later the Wall came down around it. The Tor in more recent years has been seen as a symbol of peace and unity, a must-see for first time visitors to the city.
Although I didn’t get a chance to visit during my trip, there is a multimedia museum nearby which details three centuries of the Gate’s history is worth going to if you have the time.
Reichstag
Around the corner from the Brandenburger Tor is the seat of Germany’s parliament. An impressive nineteenth-century Neoclassical building, the main attraction is the giant glass dome that was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster. It has a mirrored column at the centre (making for some fun selfies!).
Get a free timed ticket to the Reichstag to marvel at the views and history. I’d recommend taking your time and walking up slowly to get the most of the experience. There’s more information about the Reichstag here.
Checkpoint Charlie
One of the most famous border markers in the world, Checkpoint Charlie used to be the main gateway for a select few (non-Germans) between the two Berlins. There is a good summary of the history here. Looking at the imposing sign in multiple languages on either side, each accompanied by a stern and unsmiling photo of a soldier. Nowadays, much of the surrounding area has become touristy but there is an impressive replica army guardhouse, complete with sandbags, and a small plaque commemorating the only direct Cold War faceoff between the US and the USSR in October 1961.
Seeing it today, when you can freely walk across as much as you please, it seems strange to think that just over only thirty years ago how different things were.
Currywurst
Having spent a couple of hours traipsing around the city, I’d gotten peckish. Eager to try the iconic currywurst during my trip, I heard from a local that any vendor with a number in the title was a good option. Apparently invented in Berlin in 1949, grilled sausages (with or without the crunchy skin casing) are sliced and served in a spicy ketchup.
I stumbled across Curry61 near Museum Island. Choosing the classic currywurst “mit” skin served with chips (less spicy and with mayo), inside it was standing room only but people don’t linger after finishing their snack. Currywurst isn’t a delicate dish – you stab and spear pieces of sausage and chips with a toothpick. But it was a fitting option for refuelling on a winter day.
Teaspoon of Sunshine 